North Palisade, Starlight & Thunderbolt with Joe Maher and Dan Gelinas. 8.13-15.09
We have done lots of trips with Joe over the years and Dan was on the Mini Mountain Camp with Eric earlier in the year.
Both guys were in great shape and knew what they were up for so guide SP PArker and apprentice Gonzalo Montenegro were happy to be able to move quickly and smoothly with them for three days.
We hiked in over Bishop Pass on day one and made camp in the upper reaches of Palisade Basin at the small tarn we use for our Fourteeners trip .
The goal of the trip was to traverse three peaks in one day so we were off before daylight and were on top of North Pal three hours after starting. We took the so called “Secor Variation” to the Le Conte Route. This provides an easy traverse onto North Pal above the difficulties of the Le Conte Route and is the fastest way to the summit.
The descent into the notch between North Pal and Starlight is tricky and involves a couple of rappels and downclimbing. More time consuming than difficult and it was lunchtime when we got to Starlight.
Gonzalo lead the no protection 5.7 to the top of the Milkbottle and Joe and Dan sweated their way up.
Then on to Thunderbolt, descending into the Underhill Couloir Notch and then up the South Ridge to the summit block. This is best done by tossing a rope over and top roping the block.
Unfortunately the trend of removing summit registers has reached here and it was gone last year. No reason for this. If someone does not like the registers, then just don’t sign in and leave it for others who do!
A final rappel to the chute north of Thunderbolt and a long talus descent back to camp for a nap.
We were up early the next morning for the hike back down from Bishop Pass and we were out having Joe’s crackers, lox and champagne by early afternoon. A perfect way to finish!
West Palisades Climbing
Some trips with Sierra Mountain Center seem to have seasonal popularity: I remember doing trips into the west access of the Palisades 3-4 times a summer when I first started. A few years ago I did a huge number of summer ice climbing trips, hiking in and out of Mt. Thompson often enough that I quickly developed a preferred route from the Treasure Lakes basin. This year the emphasis seems to be on rock climbing.
Jeff, Cory, and Doug decided to buck fashion and asked Andrew and I to join them on a trip to the Palisades, west-side style, from 9-13 August. Absolutely!
The Palisades are most commonly climbed from the east. From Glacier Lodge the faces and ridges of Sill, Polemonium, North Palisade, Starlite, and Thunder come gradually into view as you hike closer and closer. But on the western approach, they remain hidden. Secretive. Mysterious. Until you gain Thunderbolt Col, and suddenly the other side of the Palisades jumps out.
If you’re a rock climber, the west side of the Palisades is where its at. Big routes – grade III and IV – from 4th class to 5.11 stand on every ridge, arete, and buttress. If you’re a scrambler, then the easiest lines up each and every one of these 14′ers hides in the chutes and ladders between. That’s right: the easiest routes up Thunderbolt, Starlite, North Palisade, Polemonium and Sill exist on the west side. And the hike is no harder than its eastern counterpart – 6 miles of trail to Bishop Pass, followed by 2 miles of rough cross-country as you traverse Dusy Basin. Early in the season, you can camp at the Col, but you’ll also probably need ice axes and crampons for the chutes. Later in the season the snow’s gone, but so is the water it provided. We finished the hike in 6:30 hours, then descended from the Col at 12,400′ to a pond at 11,950′. This pond has great campsites, fresh water, and one of the best views of sunset alpenglow on the Palisades.
In the morning we got an alpine start to climb the SW Chute #1 on Thunderbolt Peak (14,002′). This climb is a great introduction to the scrambling Palisade routes. A lot of scree, a little bit of route finding, and a challenging finish, with the easiest/shortest approach/descent in the range. It was dissapointing to discover that the summit register, a PVC tube, was shattered into pieces and the pages inside gone. I’m assuming this was a freak act of nature, and not wanton destruction. We were back in camp in 8-hours round trip.
Monday was declared a day of rest, and Doug decided he would like to leave early. So we said goodbye to Andrew and Doug and made plans for the next day. Cory and I decided to climb Polemonium Peak (14,080′), while Jeff hung back in camp and gave his back a rest for the hike out.
Another alpine start. Another hike up through the talus by headlamp, following an approximate trajectory until the early morning light fills the Palisade Basin. A lot of my friends ask me if this gets boring – of course it does, sometimes – this is a job after all, and every job has its moments. But this morning it was still fresh to me, still a discovery, and I enjoyed figuring out the best way to scramble across the huge boulders to the base of our climb, the West Chute.
The West Chute us also the opposite side of the U-Notch Couloir. Its the approach for all the different variations of the LeConte Route up North Palisade, but it also access a great 4th class finish up the back side of Polemonium, featuring several hundreds of feet of exposure tugging at your heals as you climb up a spectacular corner. Two rappels regain the notch and the descent back the way you came. We discovered that the register, now bolted to the summit, is in need of a new notebook. We made our way back to camp, 9 hours after leaving that morning.
We woke up to a damp morning, and waited for the sun to dry off the dew that had coated our tent and sleeping bags. Still the hike seemed to take no time to get out, lasting about 5 hours. Jeff and Cory insisted that Andrew and I join them for dinner, so we had a post-trip celebration and sushi at Yamatani in Bishop.
Thanks to everyone for a great trip!
Charlotte Dome with Jay, Haimei and Ray. August 9-11, 2009
Charlotte Dome is one of the finest climbs in the Sierra backcountry. Every single pitch is excellent and the climbing challenging, but not too hard. if only it was not such along walk…..
The approach is about 12 miles one way and makes for a long day.
But the campsite is at one of the best springs in the Sierra with cold clear water bubbling from a hole between rocks.
A wonderful place to hang out.
Jay and Haimei had been here climbing for a week before with us and were tuned up. Ray is an “old school” climber with lots of experience so guides SP and Gonzalo knew that things were going to be OK.
The approach hike went well and we were at camp by 4.00pm, with time to get organized for the next day.
We travelled light and decided to wear rock shoes to the base and down the descent hard on the feet but making the climbing a lot easier.
We were moving to the base at first light and having done the climb before easily found the start, which can be a crux for many.
The route starts out low angle and slowly gets steeper.
The rock is perfect golden granite with knobs everywhere. The ‘Slot” at 5.8 is only about 80 feet long and if you stay out of the crack is not too bad.
For the leader the mental crux is a full rope length of pretty unprotected face and slab climbing on the 9th pitch, but is easy for the followers.
The winds kicked up during the day but this is typical and the clouds and thunderstorms stayed away.
We topped out about 3.30 and the descent to camp is straightforward and easy down slabs and forest, direct to camp where everyone crashed out.
A perfect climb and one all Sierra climbing devotees should do.
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- Charlotte Dome from the approach hike
Crystal Crag
20090803: Day 3
After yesterday’s adventure on Walker Tower, we had a late breakfast at the Base Camp Cafe before taking a more mellow day – the North Arete on Crystal Crag. This is a classic II 5.6 route outside of Mammoth, featuring three pitches of steady 5.6 and another 600′ or so of 4th class ridge scrambling. After the “II 5.6″ of the previous day, this was a nice walk in the park for Jay and Haimei.
In only 5:30 hours we had approached, climbed the North Arete, tagged the summit, descended the SW Ledges (3rd class), and hiked back to the car. Nice day!
Chris Simmons is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide and a Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guide for SMC. More about his adventures can be found on his personal website, Climb.Ski.Run.Sleep.Repeat.
Condition Report for the High Sierra
This condition report uses direct observation from the Palisade Range to make some general predictions for the current conditions in the High Sierra. Don’t use this as your sole source of information to trip plan!
This photo shows the Palisade Range from Polemonium to Thunderbolt Peaks. Clearly in view are the V-Notch Couloir, U-Notch Couloir, Clyde Couloir, NE Couloir on Thunderbolt, North Face of Thunderbolt, and an un-named couloir to the right of the North Face. Photo taken late July, 2009.
The alpine ice routes in the Sierra continue to be in the best shape I have seen them in 7 years. The L-shaped couloir on Mt. Sill is also still filled in with snow, and the Palisade Glacier is showing bare ice only in the lowest elevations closest to the tarn. While hiking out of Bishop Pass last week I noticed that the Smrz Coulior on Mt. Thompson appears to be almost completely connected, a condition I have never seen before in the summer. If I wasn’t getting ready for a rock climbing trip, this would be the summer to tackle ice routes. I can only assume that other routes, like the Mendenhall couloirs, are in good shape as well.
Otherwise, all of the rock routes are accessible without crampons and ice axes at this time, including the celestial aretes on Temple Crag and the chutes on the west side of the Palisades. Night time lows are mild, and daytime highs are pleasant. This may be the best time of the year to get after it!
Chris Simmons is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide and an Alpine, Rock, and Ski Guide for SMC. More about his adventures can be found on his personal website, Climb.Ski.Run.Sleep.Repeat.
The Walker Tower (5-6 pitches, 5.7)
20090802: DAY 2! In R.J. Secor’s book, a multi-pitch climb is mentioned to exist in Bloody Canyon, just north of June Lake. The first tower on the left supposedly had a route following the right side of a larger corner on the prow of the tower, up to 5.6. The whole description took up three lines as a “wrinkle”, fitting for a route established in the early 1970’s:
“There is a II 5.6 route on the easternmost pinnacle. Climb the face to the right of a black open book, and then the book itself for eight pitches to the top of the pinnacle. This was first climbed October 1972 by Art Buck and Allan Fletcher.”
Secor, The High Sierra, 2nd. ed., pg 376
Three previous attempts, as a solo, mock-guiding, and an actual guided trip (thanks Carlton!) had gotten me up the first three pitches, but two more were clearly needed to top out. A 60-meter rope cut down on the number of pitches that Buck and Fletcher had established, but I’m still scratching my head over how an 8-pitch climb could be called a grade II. I talked a good game to Heimei and Jay, so they bit the bait and signed up to go for an adventure. Oh boy.
First, we were using 55m ropes (chopped 60m’s) and suddenly those great belay ledges on the right side were just out of reach, so we had to belay, and climb in and out of, the dirtier corner, and it took three pitches to climb the lower corner instead of two. Then I climbed through the roof pitch instead of staying on the right wall: The climbing through the roof was cool, but the remaining 100′ was un-inspiring. The next pitch was the meat and potatoes – a steep corner requiring careful stemming. Again, a 60-meter rope would have put us at a great belay stance instead of in a cramped corner. And it didn’t let up! The final corner was a squeeze chimney, complete with pack-hanging-off-the-waist before gaining some blessed 4th class terrain to the summit.
A quick bit of short roping gained us the notch behind the tower, and the descent. We finished the hike to the car right after dark by the light of a full moon and two headlamps. Jay won’t make that mistake again!
Now that a week has worn away the edges of my memory, the climb wasn’t so bad, but it needs an early start (plan for an 8-10 hour day), a 60-meter rope, some cleaning to make it worthwhile. Its also stiff for the reported grade – my compromise is to call it a II/III 5.7. Jay and Haimei still insist that it was the adventure they had been looking for. Not sure if I’ll head back there anytime soon, but I can be talked into it…
Chris Simmons is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide and a Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guide for SMC. More about his adventures can be found on his personal site, Climb.Ski.Run.Sleep.Repeat.
Big Springs Rock Climbing!!
Jay and Heimei joined me again this year for a few days of rock climbing. August 1st was day one, so we took it mellow and went to a sector of Big Springs that’s new to me: The Stumps. Big Springs is better known for Clark Canyon, but the stumps featured 60-150′ trad climbs up remarkably good welded tuff. We climbed a 5.6, 5.7, 5.7, 5.9, and finally a 150′ 5.8 with a great finish not shown in the guidebook. What a great time!
Hiking to Whitney the casual way: Cottonwood to Whitney from the West Side
July 26-31: One of the more relaxed trips that Sierra Mountain Center offers is a horse-pack supported, five-day long, hiking trip to the summit of Mt. Whitney via Horseshoe Meadows and Cottonwood Pass. Don’t be fooled by my casual discription of the trip – we hiked 8-13 miles per day, every day. But for me, the trip is a great way to take a break from lugging 45-lbs packs up/down steep approaches, so I savor five days where I’m just expected to walk, chat, and cook. Max and the horses and mules from Cottonwood Pack Station ferried our gear across the back of the crest – thanks Max!
Devils Crag with Corrine Livingston July 28-August 1, 2009
Somehow we seem to have become the “go to” guide service for Devils Crag. The peak is probably the most difficult on the Sierra Peaks list. This list comprises 248 peaks and only 66 people have done it and Corrine has only 15 left to go and has a trip to the Great Western Divide next week which if she completes her tick list there will have 7 left to go.
This trip had a great ratio of guide to climber with SP leading, and interns Rich and Andrew coming along.
The first day took us over Bishop Pass, down into Le Conte Canyon and then spent the night at Grouse Meadow. The Kings River here is slow moving and about thigh deep but no big deal to cross and we camped on the far side after crossing while it was still warm.
The next day is the climb up towards Rambaud Pass. This is all off trail travel and steep going. But it goes quickly and a few hours took us to the highest lake on the east side of the pass. Where to camp here is always an issue; camp low and save hauling the pack over the Pass or carry up and over to camp in the beautiful basin on the west side – longer pack carrying but closer. We opted for the former since thunderstorm could were building and rain was imminent. We set up the tent and spent lunch sitting out the rain. Once things cleared up we decided to see if we could knock off Wheel Mountain. About 500 feet from the top another storm moved back in so we ducked off the ridge and dropped down a few hundred feet to reduce the lightening exposure. Corrine was surprised that were not going all the way down to camp – we were close and it looked like the storm would pass so we hunkered down and took what shelter we could from the rain. A bag of M&Ms helped! An hour later the skies cleared and a little damp we went back up and summited Wheel about 5.30 in the evening.
The return trip was a beautiful hike in the late day light with clouds everywhere and the air washed clean.
Next morning was a pre-dawn start to Devils Crag and we go back to the Pass at about 6.00am. From here we skirted Whitetop to the start of the real climbing and roped up.
The climbing on the ridge is never harder than 4th class and maybe an odd 5th class move but the rock is not the usual good Sierra granite. It is loose and you to be very careful. Scary for those used to high quality granite, but certainly no worse than places such as the Canadian Rockies.
The ridge goes on for a long time and while you only gain about 500 feet it takes about 4 hours to get to the summit. Only four groups had climbed the peak since we did it two years ago with Linda Emerson.
Then it was back down the ridge and off to camp for a cup of tea and a nap as the thunderstorms moved in again.
A slow start next day took us back down to the KIngs and the long haul up out of Le Conte Canyon. Slow and steady!.
We spent the night in Upper Dusy Basin and then finished off the trip out on Day 5.
A long trip but really fun and a beautiful unspoiled area.
Next up is a trip back there with Louise Wholey.
Extended Mountain Camp; July 2009
Wednesday, 20090722. Moved camp to Palisade Lake, at the toe of the Palisade Glacier, and went over snow, ice, and glacier skills. It begins to rain at 7:30pm, and doesn’t let up until 7:00am the next day.
Chris Simmons is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide and an Alpine, Rock, and Ski Guide for SMC. More about his adventures can be found at his personal site, Climb.Ski.Run.Sleep.Repeat.
